Relaxing Curly Hair: Chemical and Alternative Treatments (2025)

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Written byJenny Tran|Edited byChristopher M. Osborne, PhD

Last Updated: February 7, 2025References

Sure, sometimes you might love your curls, but right now you’re looking for a way to relax them a little (or a lot). To help out, we’ll walk you through the process of using the most common treatment—a store-bought chemical hair relaxer. And we’ve also listed several alternative and natural treatments you can try out. So show those curls who’s boss and tell them to chill out!

This article is based on an interview with our hair stylist, Jenny Tran, founder of JT Hair Lab by Jenny Tran. Check out the full interview here.

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   Choose a relaxer based on your hair type and skin sensitivity. Some relaxers contain lye while others are no-lye formulations, and each has its pros and cons. While lye relaxers irritate your scalp more, no-lye relaxers tend to be harsher on your hair follicles. Both types come in “regular” and “super” strength formulations, as well as varieties formulated for specific hair types. So, choose the formulation that suits your hair and scalp types best, but also be ready for some trial-and-error in finding the best relaxer for you.^[1]

   • Commercial hair relaxers have three chemical formulations: sodium hydroxide, which contains lye, and calcium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate, which do not.^[2]
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   Wash your hair around 1 week before relaxing it. Or, to put it another way, don’t wash your hair for at least 3-5 days (and ideally 7 days) before using a chemical relaxer. Why? Shampoo strips oils from your hair, which leaves it vulnerable to greater damage caused by the chemicals in the relaxer^[3]

   • Use a clarifying shampoo and, if desired, follow up with a deep conditioning or homemade protein treatment to nourish and moisturize your hair.
   • Since shampooing makes curly hair even curlier, it’s a good idea to get into a less frequent shampoo routine (such as weekly) or to use a dry shampoo.

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   Divide your hair into sections with a comb and hair clips. Use a comb to separate your hair into about 4-6 equal sections, then secure each of the sections with non-metal hair clips or hair bands. This process will make it much easier to apply the relaxer evenly. Keep the following safety and convenience measures in mind while you work:^[4]

   • Don’t scrape or scratch your scalp with the comb. Work very carefully to protect the sensitive skin on your scalp. Otherwise, you’ll really feel it when you apply the relaxer!
   • Avoid metal hair clips or hair bands. The metal might react with the chemicals in the hair relaxer.
   • Put on gloves and a hairdresser’s cape. The process gets a little messy from here on, and it’s a really good idea to keep the chemicals off of your hands and body. If you don’t have a hairdresser’s cape, drape towels around your neck and over your shoulders.
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   Apply a scalp protectant to your exposed skin. Choose either a hair relaxer base cream or petroleum jelly for this task. Apply an even coat of the protectant to your exposed scalp in between each of the divided sections of hair, as well as all around your hairline.^[5]

   • Add some protectant to your ears, forehead, and back of your neck as well. It’ll help keep the relaxer from irritating your skin.
   • You’ll find base creams for sale alongside the hair relaxers, but plain old petroleum jelly gets the job done as well.

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   Apply the mixed relaxer from the roots out in one section of hair. Stir together the components of the cream- or paste-like hair relaxer in a plastic bowl, according to the package instructions. Pick one of the sections of hair on top of your head, remove the hair clip or hair band, and gather a ¹⁄₂in (1.3cm) thick tuft of hair in your hand. Use the provided applicator brush to apply a thin, even coat of relaxer to it. Repeat the process until you’ve applied relaxer to the entire section.^[6]

   • If this is your first time using a relaxer, apply the relaxer evenly from the roots to the tips of your hair.
   • If you’ve used hair relaxer before, apply relaxer only to the areas of new growth near your scalp. Adding more relaxer to previously-treated areas will cause unnecessary hair damage.
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   Finish applying the relaxer, doing your hairline and neckline last. Once you’ve finished the first section near the top of your head, move on to another section in the same area. Wait until the end to do the sections at the very front (along your forehead) and very back (along the nape of your neck), since these areas tend to require less time for the relaxer to work—and less time equals less hair damage.^[7]

   • Unless the treated hair is getting in your way, don’t put the hair clips or hair bands back in place after finishing each section.
   • You may need a helper to get to the sections of hair at the back of your head. Make sure they put on gloves as well.
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   Wait for the product-recommended time (usually 10-15 minutes). Leaving the product in for less than the recommended time is okay if you’re seeking milder results. However, do not exceed the recommended wait time or you may cause significant damage to your hair. Refer to the product instructions for the proper wait time—and set a timer to remind yourself if necessary!^[8]

   • Leaving relaxer in too long can make your hair extremely dry and brittle, or may even cause it to fall out.
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   Rinse, shampoo, and condition your hair in the shower. After the recommended waiting time is up, hop in the shower and give your hair a good 5 minutes or more of rinsing with warm-to-hot water. Follow up with a neutralizing shampoo, then rinse it out. Finally, massage in a moisturizing conditioner, leave it for 3-5 minutes, then rinse.^[9]

   • Alternatively, some stylists recommend using the moisturizing conditioner first, so it can nourish your hair while the cuticles are open, then following up with the neutralizing shampoo.
   • Don’t skimp on the initial rinsing time! It’s important to get as much of the relaxer out of your hair as possible to prevent ongoing hair damage.
   • Don’t rely on an everyday shampoo here. Neutralizing shampoos are designed for use after chemical treatments like coloring or relaxing.
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   Dry and style your hair, using a flat iron if desired. At this point the relaxing process is complete and you can dry and style your newly-relaxed hair in your preferred fashion. You can also use a flat iron to further straighten your hair. Here are some styling and care tips to keep in mind:

   • Use a hairspray that keeps your hair flexible, not one that leaves your hair “crunchy.”
   • To reduce flyaways, apply hairspray, then use a boar bristle brush to smooth down the flyaways while the hairspray dries.
   • Set your flat iron at a lower temperature to reduce heat damage to your hair. Increase the temperature incrementally as needed to get the desired results.
   • Try applying an anti-frizz serum or cream if your hair starts to get more frizzy in the days and weeks after relaxing it.
   • Comb or brush your hair as needed to prevent knots, but don’t overdo it. Excessive combing or brushing will cause excessive frizzing.

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   Keratin: You’ll probably get the best results from a keratin treatment at a salon (which can cost $100-$450 USD), but you can also do an at-home keratin treatment. The at-home process involves applying the keratin product evenly to your hair, leaving it for around 30 minutes, drying your hair, and then using a flat iron to complete the process. Follow the specific product instructions for your chosen keratin treatment.

   • Keratin is a protein found in your hair, nails, and skin. Keratin alone won’t relax or straighten your hair, but a keratin treatment can make your flat iron more effective (and less damaging).
   • Keratin treatments tend to keep your hair relaxed for around 1-2 months.
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   Panthenol: This may sound like some kind of lab-designed chemical, but panthenol is a natural “provitamin” that your body converts into Vitamin B5. Panthenol is great at drawing in moisture and locking it into your hair, which may provide some mild curl relaxation. Panthenol is widely used in shampoos and conditioners, so check the ingredient lists and try out various panthenol-rich products to see if they provide solid results for you.^[10]

   • Panthenol is also available in powdered form, which you can mix with water to create your own hair treatment. Try applying it like a conditioner on a weekly basis or on whatever schedule works best for you.^[11]
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   Olive oil: Olive oil is a major ingredient in many DIY hair relaxer recipes because it helps lock moisture into your hair. You can try options like hot olive oil treatments, but consider starting with a simpler tactic: every time you wash your hair, massage equal amounts of olive oil and your favorite moisturizing conditioner into your hair before shampooing.^[12]

   • No, you won’t get the same straightening results from olive oil or other home remedies as with a chemical hair relaxer. But these are budget-friendly (and harsh chemical free) alternatives that may loosen and relax your curls with regular use.
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   Coconut cream: Gently heat 4 tbsp (60 g) of coconut cream and 2 tbsp (30 ml) of coconut oil until the cream melts. Stir in 12 fl oz (375 g) of plain yogurt until the mixture is combined. Massage the mixture into your hair from roots to tips, leave it for 1 hour, then rinse it out. Repeat the process weekly, or on whatever schedule provides the best results for you.^[13]

   • Coconut cream, especially when combined with coconut oil, may help keep your hair moisturized and therefore keep your curls a bit more relaxed.
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   Milk and honey: Use equal amounts of whole milk and honey for this recipe—enough to coat your entire head of hair. Warm the honey so it will combine more readily with the milk, then stir the ingredients together. Let the mixture cool slightly, then massage it into your hair from roots to tips. Rinse it out after 20-30 minutes. Repeat this treatment weekly.^[14]

   • Like most other home remedies, the goal here is to lock moisture into your hair because more moisture equals more relaxed curls.
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   Cocoa butter: Gently warm the cocoa butter until it softens and just begins to melt, then apply a thick coating of it onto your hair. Wrap a towel that you’ve dampened with warm-to-hot water around your head and wait 30 minutes. Rinse out the cocoa butter in the shower—it can get pretty sticky, so you may need to use shampoo to get it out.^[15]

   • Feel free to try out your own combinations of any of these treatments—for instance, combining cocoa butter and coconut cream, or adding olive oil to your milk and honey mixture. If it works for you, go for it!

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